How To Paint Laminate Furniture

Give your old laminate furniture a makeover. 

Materials: 

(Note: This post contains affiliate links) 

• Angled Sanding Sponge  (I use these for almost every project, so it is worth buying in bulk.) 
• 2" Angled Paint Brush (This one is affordable and works just as well as pricier brushes)
• Mini Foam Paint Roller (I used this set from Lowe's and it works great) 
• Tack Cloth 
• DAP Alex Plus Caulk (I'd actually recommend buying in bulk because it is much cheaper, and I use this on almost every project too.) 
• Caulk Gun (no need to buy a fancy one. This one will work fine) 
• Elmer's Wood Filler 
• Zinsser Bulls Eye Primer (Or, get the 5 gallon bucket. I've used it on walls, furniture, cabinets, you name it.)
• Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd Enamel Paint Semi-Gloss (I used Benjamin Moore Advance, but you can also use Sherwin Williams ProClassic). 
• Plastic drop cloth (Another item I buy in bulk. Are you seeing a theme?) 
• Cloth or rag 
• New Hardware (I got a 25-pack of oil-rubbed bronze bar pulls. I knew I would be using them on other furniture and cabinets, and it was a lot cheaper than buying a 2 pack). 

Tools: 

• Screwdriver 
• Drill 
• Mounting Template (if you are installing new hardware, this is a total lifesaver) 

Step 1: Remove Any Hardware 

1. Remove any drawer slides, drawer pulls, knobs, etc. 

Step 2: Clean surface 

1. Use a rag with warm water and a mild dish detergent to remove grease and dirt. 

Step 3: Fill in Holes with Wood Filler 

1. Use wood filler to patch any holes, dents, etc. 
2. Once wood filler has dried, sand the patches until smooth 

Step 4: Lightly Sand Entire Surface 

1. Lightly sand your furniture. The goal is to slightly rough up the surface so the primer has something to grip. 

Step 5: Wipe With Tack Cloth 

1. Wipe thoroughly with tack cloth. This will remove any dust left behind. Make sure you remove dust and particles from all the corners and crevices. 

Step 6: Prime and Caulk  

1. Apply primer with your mini foam paint roller. 
2. Use the angled brush to reach the places your roller can't (corners and crevices). 
3. Let dry at least 3 hours. 
4. Caulk every crack and crevice (I like to wait until after I have primed because it is easier to see what needs to be caulked. 
5. Allow caulk to dry.  
6. Apply a second coat of primer.  
7. Depending on your piece, you may need to apply a third coat of primer, which I did. 

After 1 coat of primer

After 2 coats of primer

Step 7: Paint 

Don't go cheap on the paint. I know there are people who swear by chalk paint. I confess: I've never used it, so I can't speak to it. I like the Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd Enamel Paint for a couple reasons: 

• It doesn't stink like oil-based paint 
• When fully cured, it hardens and doesn't dent or scratch easily 
• It has leveling properties to hide brush marks 
• It will give your furniture a clean, finished, professional look. 

Trust me: it is worth the extra money. Here is my process for minimizing brush marks and air bubbles: 

1. Apply paint with a foam roller first 
2. Apply paint to your paintbrush. Holding your brush at 30-degree angle, lightly skim the top of the area you just rolled. 
3. Wait 24 hours for paint to dry. 
4. Lightly sand the painted surface. 
5. Wipe down with tack cloth. 
6. Repeat steps 1-3.

Painted and ready for new hardware. 

 Step 8: Install Hardware (pulls, knobs, handles)

New hardware can transform your furniture.

1. Measure where you need to drill holes using a mounting template and mark with a pencil. 
2. Drill holes using your drill 
3. Install hardware using screwdriver 

Step 9: Admire The Finished Product 

Fresh. Clean. Modern.